As the warm season approaches, residents in Copenhagen are increasingly drawn to the city’s effortlessly cool dining culture — where traditional white tablecloths and set menus are put aside in favour of eclectic table settings, al-fresco dining, and inventive sharing concepts. We met with three culinary creatives shaping the Danish capital’s food scene to explore the concepts, trends and influences steering the cultural tide.
To many, oysters are considered a rare indulgence. Mentions of this briny delicacy typically conjure up imagery of high society luncheons and fine silverware. However, determined young culinary talents such as Jonas Harboe Frederiksen are forging a new, alternative path for the oyster.
Jonas is a self-proclaimed ‘Oyster Pusher’ and the Head Chef of PinkOyster — an innovative pop-up dining concept based in Copenhagen. Nature is always the key inspiration behind the concept, which serves up brightly coloured, seasonal oyster pairings using fresh and pickled ingredients, many of which are foraged by Jonas himself. For evidence, look no further than his signature ‘Pink Oyster’; a vibrant oyster dish comprised of beach roses, rhubarb, and his personal blend of ‘pink secrets'.
We asked Jonas to take us along as he creates his ideal dinner party for friends and family, complete with our Flow tableware series in off-white speckle, vibrant pink blossoms, and — of course — an endless stream of fresh oysters.
We join Jonas on the wind-swept shores of Copenhagen’s Amager Strand, an urban beach that lies east of the city centre. Here, while setting the table for a party of six, he opens up about the ideology surrounding PinkOyster and how growing up on the small Danish island of Bornholm continues to influence his work today.
“My philosophy revolves around creating innovative oyster experiences with hyperlocal ingredients, like my signature oyster featuring rhubarb and rosehips from Bornholm,” Jonas shares. “As a nod to my roots, I forage all my herbs and flowers on the island, before pickling and storing the ferments in my parent’s basement.”
Danish ingredients are a theme seen throughout all of PinkOysters’ concepts. In Jonas’ own words, the best way to replicate the spirit of Copenhagen-style dining is to “focus on sourcing local, seasonal ingredients, and emphasize simplicity and sustainability in your cooking.” To take it a step further, he suggests eating according to the seasons. “The seasons dictate almost everything. Right now, it’s spring and we’re using small blossoms in our oysters but as it becomes greener in the warm months, we’ll naturally gravitate towards fresh herbs and light ingredients.”
On the topic of sustainability, Jonas explains that eating oysters contributes to slowing the spread of invasive species. “If you can’t beat them, eat them,” he shares with a laugh. “Eating oysters contributes to controlling their population and preserving biodiversity.”
However, the allure of PinkOyster is as much about the experience as the food. “Prepare in advance to ensure you have time for your guests and focus on creating a cosy atmosphere. A meal becomes memorable when it reflects time and love invested in its preparation,” Jonas tells us. “It's not just about the food but also the company and the setting that make the experience truly special.”
When asked about beverage pairings, Jonas dishes on his favourite combination: oysters and champagne. “There’s something special about the synergy between oysters and champagne. It’s one of those combinations that is simply brilliant and irresistible.”
But it goes deeper than just taste. “Science has proven that in champagne, dead yeast cells contribute to glutamate, which is an umami flavour. In oysters, umami comes from the muscle itself, also known as nucleotides,” Jonas explains. “When you combine glutamate and nucleotides, you create a unique synergy, making it a match made in heaven.”
On the Table:
White Oyster: Smoked cheese, white currants, and blackcurrant tree oil.
Green Oyster: Grilled salsa verde, pine and ramson.
Yellow Oyster: Mandarin, sea buckthorn and yuzu.
Signature Pink Oyster: Beach roses, rhubarb and secret pink blend.
Jonas has styled the table using our Flow Tableware Series in Off-white Speckle. With it’s charming, perfectly ‘imperfect’ expression and unique glazing, Flow is the perfect sidekick for everyday dining and special occasions alike. Style it with pieces in the same colour or look to Flow’s other colourways for a mix-and-match look.
Explore the Flow Series here.
Did you get a chance to explore our other Copenhagen Dining Diaries?
